Every now and then a company decides to go off in an entirely new direction. I never thought I would see the day that pickup trucks would bear the Cadillac moniker, or that Cadillac would be one of the most sought after cars by teenagers! Who could have predicted just ten years ago that Apple Computer’s hottest product would be a portable music player? Times change, markets shift, and the consumer is a continually moving target. Holland America Line is one company that is not satisfied clinging to a solid reputation as a premium cruise line for “older” folks. Instead, HAL (as it is affectionately referred to throughout the industry) is in the middle of a $225 million “Signature of Excellence” initiative to literally reshape their business. “The comprehensive enhancements focus on five areas central to the Holland America guest experience: spacious, elegant ships and accommodations; sophisticated five-star dining; gracious, unobtrusive service; extensive enrichment programs and activities, and compelling worldwide itineraries,” claims the Holland America website. What this really means is that Holland America is no longer 'your father’s cruise line'. HAL’s new Vista-class ships (Zuiderdam, Oosterdam, and Westerdam) are built on the same platform as Carnival’s popular Spirit class. At 85,000 tons each, these vessels can serve 1,850 passengers when full, nearly 600 more passengers than ms Maasdam which was built in 1993.

The Ship

The ms Oosterdam is one of the new Vista class vessels and is reflective of HAL’s new vision of the future. One thing the company has not changed is the traditional dark blue hull capped with white decks and topped off with dual smoke stacks. Even though the Oosterdam’s inaugural was in 2002, we were surprised to see the amount of wear she was showing. The leather recliners in the Crow’s Nest lounge looked as though they had been in service for ten years. Some other signs of wear could be seen on the brass-plated surfaces in elevators and handrails. Funny thing about brass plating, it looks really chic when it is polished and clean, but cheap when it is scratched.  Other than these nits (as in ‘nit pick’), the ship is downright beautiful. Holland America’s combination of colors, fabrics, woods, marble and brass make Oosterdam a floating palace. The décor is elegant without overpowering the senses.

The interior spaces of HAL’s Vista class ships are very easy to navigate. All public areas are located on Decks 1, 2, 3, 9 and 10. Remaining decks are used for staterooms with a few staterooms also being located on the Main Deck (1). There are plenty of elevators and stairways to keep traffic moving vertically. An elegant spiral staircase connects Decks 1, 2 and 3 in the ship’s centrally located Atrium. A wonderful and wide Promenade on Deck 3 makes for great morning walks with 3 laps equaling a mile. The Promenade Deck also features HAL’s signature teak decking and there are plenty of teak lounge chairs, perfect for relaxing with a book. Blankets are readily available so you can enjoy your favorite novel while watching the amazing scenery of the Inside Passage go by. The Lido Pool on Deck 9 (Lido deck) is located amidships and features a retractable roof, perfect for Alaska or the Caribbean! The Aft Pool, as its name would indicate, is located aft on the Lido Deck and is fully exposed to the elements. Both pools offer lots of loungers and deck space. Additional loungers can be found on the Observation Deck (10) with the nicer teak loungers located forward on Deck 10.

The Crow’s Nest is located forward on the Observation Deck (10) and is perhaps the most popular place for viewing Alaska scenery and wildlife. The Crow’s Nest features 180 degree viewing and extremely comfortable seating. A row of leather recliners is located at the very front of the lounge for excellent viewing. This is also a popular venue for pre-dinner and after dinner drinks and dancing.

The Vista Lounge is the ship’s theater that spans Decks 2 and 3. The seating is comfortable, but the sightlines leave a lot to be desired. The best bet is to arrive early and get a seat on one of the first five rows. The Vista features the latest in lighting and stage technology and is capable of delivering a variety of entertainment options to Oosterdam’s guests. The smaller Queen’s Lounge is used for lectures, bingo and afternoon movies.

The futuristic Piano Bar is located on Deck 2 forward and makes a great place to meet for drinks while enjoying the stylings of a talented musician. However, sports fans will want to head to the Sports Bar, located just aft of the Piano Bar. The Sports Bar features several TV screens with a live ESPN feed. The Ocean Bar surrounds the Atrium on Deck 3 (Promenade Deck) and also features live entertainment each evening.

The Erasmus Library on Promenade Deck (3) is well stocked with a variety of the latest books and board games. Plush leather seating offers a quiet sanctuary for guests looking for a peaceful place to read the latest novel. Each book must be “checked out” and a $25 charge is put on your shipboard account until the book is returned.

The Internet Lounge is one of the nicest you will find on any ship. There are plenty of workstations and the pricing is fair, $40 for 100 minutes (40 cents per minute) or 75 cents per minute if you go on a per minute basis. The problem with the prepaid services (50 minute or 100 minute package) is you will not receive any refund for unused minutes at the end of the cruise. However, if an interruption in the service during the last day or so of your cruise prevents you from using your minutes, you will be credited on the last day of the cruise.

The Shopping Arcade features a nice assortment of shops selling such items as clothing, jewelry, liquor, logo items and sundries. You cannot miss the shops since they have been strategically placed to capture all foot traffic on Deck 3 as you move from one end of the ship to the other.

The Gym and Greenhouse Spa are located on the Lido Deck forward. The Gym is well equipped with the latest cardio equipment as well as weight training circuit machines and free weights. The Greenhouse Spa offers a wide variety of massage, facials, and manicure treatments. For $109 I got an amazing back and shoulder massage and facial treatment that lasted more than an hour. There is also a hair salon.

Accommodations

Staterooms and suites aboard Oosterdam range in size from a modest 183 sq. ft. to as much as 1,318 sq. ft. Our Deluxe Verandah Outside Stateroom was 249 sq. ft. including a nice-sized balcony. The stateroom was a little cramped and suffered from a lack of storage space. Other than the small nightstands, there was no drawer space to be found. We were able to use the shelves in the closet as drawers. HAL claims that the drawers were replaced with the mini-bar/refrigerator in response to customer suggestions. The closets themselves were very roomy and were full of wooden hangers. Even though Oosterdam has not yet undergone the Signature of Excellence overhaul (it is scheduled for September of ’06), we found the bed to be very comfortable. The bathroom features a full-sized tub/shower combination. The bathroom, too, has minimal storage with only a single tower of narrow glass shelves next to the sink. A small sofa and chair surround a small coffee table. The desk/entertainment center could also use some drawers and shelves. There is very little space for using a laptop computer or plugging in charging units for cameras, video cameras, etc.

Our stateroom was very quiet throughout the entire cruise and its location on Deck 5 put us within easy walking distance of most of the ship’s facilities. The plumbing, heating and A/C worked flawlessly throughout the entire cruise.

Dining

We found the overall dining experience on our Oosterdam Alaska cruise to be much improved over our 2003 Zuiderdam sailing. Oosterdam offers guests several dining choices throughout the day. Each day begins with breakfast, which can be enjoyed buffet style at the Lido Restaurant or a traditional, full service breakfast in the Vista Dining Room. The Lido is the best bet for variety. Eggs made to order can be accompanied by bacon, sausage, ham, potatoes, grits, or just about anything else you can think of. A large variety of doughnuts, breads, waffles, pancakes and pastries as well as fruit and yogurt are offered here as well. My favorite morning spot is the Windstar Café located on Deck 2. This is Oosterdam’s premium coffee shop where you can get Espresso, Cappuccino, Mocha Latte or any other coffee drink you can imagine. The beverages here are not complimentary, though. A 16oz. Americano will cost you $2 plus gratuity (about the same as Starbucks). However, the quality of the fresh brewed coffee served here far exceeds that served in the Lido or in the Vista Dining Room.

Lunchtime offers perhaps the most choices of all. If you wander up to the Lido on Deck 9 you could have a sandwich made-to-order. Or, you could walk a few more feet and choose from a variety of meats and vegetables that change each day. Or, if you make it all the way forward to the Asian Wok, you could partake of fresh sushi and Chinese, Thai or Vietnamese wok creations with fried rice. Or, you could do it all! If a burger or fajitas is more your style, you could step out to the Terrace Grill and enjoy your lunch “al fresco”. Of course, you could also enjoy a full service lunch served in the Vista Dining room with a menu which changes every day. Be advised, the Vista Dining Room is only open for lunch on sea days.

Dinner is served in the Vista Dining Room at four different times: 5:30pm, 6:00pm, 7:45pm and 8:00pm. We found the service in the Vista to be very good, even though we were seated at a table for ten. Dinner orders were taken promptly and all courses were delivered in a timely fashion. The menu selections on Holland America should appeal to just about any palate. Food quality and preparation ranges from average to good with very few real misses along the way. Presentation is exceptional for a large, busy dining room. Entrees are served on gold accented china plates and each one is carefully turned so that the distinctive HAL logo is found at the 12 o’clock position in front of you. Those who wish to dine without the regiment of set dining times can opt for dinner in the Lido Restaurant anytime from 5:30 till 7:45 pm each evening, or, the evening menu is available delivered to your stateroom or suite via Room Service, something you will not find on most other large ship cruise lines. For a true 5-star dining experience, however, Holland America guests should make reservations at the ship’s premier restaurant, The Pinnacle Grill at the Odyssey. It is well worth the nominal service charge to experience the food and service at the Pinnacle Grill. The Pinnacle grill is open for lunch on sea days and dinner every evening. Lunch is $10 per person and dinner is $20 per person (only $10 pp on the first night of every cruise).

Entertainment

Even though somewhat improved over the abysmal entertainment we experienced two years ago on Oosterdam’s sister ship, Zuiderdam, this is still an area that does not live up to the expectations one has of a “premium” cruise line. Evening entertainment options are varied throughout the week with musical acts, magicians, jugglers, comedians and two “big” production shows featuring the Oosterdam Singers and Dancers. The cast of singers and dancers is extremely talented and do their best to deliver on lackluster productions. In the Rockin’ Road show, the stage sets hardly changed at all throughout the show and there was only one noticeable costume change. Even though the title would lead one to believe the show would focus on rock and roll, the whole show had more of a country western feel. Also noticeable is the lack of a live orchestra during production shows. Music is taped and many numbers are lip synched. On the upside, the selection of comedians, magicians and other entertainers which appear in the Vista Lounge was exceptional.

Note: HAL claims to be developing three new shows which will be released in late February 2006.

Activities

Cruise Director, Steve Gayda, did an exceptional job of keeping guests busy with a variety of activities during our cruise. Below is a list of available activities for one of the “at sea” days on Oosterdam:

• 8:00 am Aerobics class

• 9:00 am Shore Excursion Talk

• 9:00 am Pathway to Yoga Program (nominal fee)

• 9:15 am Mixed Ping Pong Tournament

• 9:30 am Pictionary Fun

• 10:00 am Port and Shopping Information Talk

• 10:00 am Casino Gaming Lessons

• 10:00 am Pinnacle Grill Open House and Kitchen Tour

• 10:30 am Quoits (game) Women vs. Men

• 10:30am Spa Seminar Eat More to Weigh Less

• 11:00 am Snowball Jackpot Bingo

• Noon Singles Lunch

• 12:00 pm Naturalist Lecture Alaska, Wild and Wonderful

• 12:15 pm Line Dance Class

• 1:00 pm Martini Bartending Class

• 1:00 pm Ship Building Competition

• 1:15 pm Golf Chipping Contest

• 2:30 pm Team Trivia

• 3:15 pm Snowball Jackpot Bingo

• 3:15 pm Royal Dutch Afternoon Tea

• 3:30 pm Digital Camera Seminar

• 9:15 pm Karaoke

• 11:00 pm Let’s Celebrate Dance Party

It’s easy to see that you will not be bored on Holland America, unless of course, you choose to be.

Itinerary and Excursions

Our 7-night Alaska Explorer Cruise sailing roundtrip out of Seattle is a great way to get a taste of Alaska. This is especially good for first-time Alaska cruisers who want the convenience of avoiding international air travel (most Alaska itineraries require flying into or out of Vancouver, BC).

Seattle, Washington - This cruise embarks and disembarks in Seattle, making this one of the most convenient Alaska itineraries available. Seattle is a beautiful city and one well worth spending an extra day or two before or after the cruise to discover on your own. We were fortunate to book a room at the Grand Hyatt in downtown Seattle. The hotel is amazing and is located within walking distance of many of Seattle's most popular attractions, most notably, Pike Street Market. The market is located on the waterfront and is where locals and tourists congregate to buy fresh seafood, meats, cheeses, fresh flowers and souvenirs from hundreds of local vendors. We purchased an amazing floral arrangement for only $5 that would have easily cost $30 or more in Dallas. We enjoyed it in our stateroom throughout the cruise!

Juneau, Alaska - Juneau is nestled between Mount Juneau and Mount Roberts, which gives the town a beautiful scenic setting as well as natural protection from cold winds and permafrost common to Alaska. In 1900, the capital of Alaska was moved from Sitka to Juneau where it has remained ever since. Our Juneau Icefield & Glacier Flightseeing by Floatplane excursion ($174 per person), a one hour and fifteen minute excursion (40 minutes flight time), offers some great glacier sightseeing and photo opportunities, depending on the weather conditions. It was overcast on our visit to Juneau (a very common weather condition in Alaska) and the visibility was limited. A better excursion, albeit more costly, would be one of the helicopter flightseeing trips which were sold out on our cruise. Book early and in advance if you want to do a helicopter sightseeing trip.

Glacier Bay - Our unscheduled stop at Glacier Bay was amazing. Our visit to John Hopkins and Margerie Glaciers was a memorable one. This is a great place to get out on deck and enjoy the Dutch tradition of eating green pea soup as you watch the glaciers in all their majesty. Normally, the ship visits Hubbard Glacier, but due to rough seas, the Captain decided to take Oosterdam to Glacier Bay instead. This was an unexpected delight!

Sitka, Alaska - Alaska's "Little Russia" shows little evidence of its Russian ancestry. Sitka's beautiful scenery is its most treasured asset. The island is covered with lush spruce forests that stretch to the water's edge. Having been to Sitka on multiple cruises, we opted to just walk around town on our own. There are a few small tour operators right near the pier where the tenders drop passengers, so we paid $12 for a van to drive us to the Alaska Raptor Center where we paid another $12 per person admission. This was a great way to spend an hour or so viewing a variety of bald eagles, owls and other raptors cared for by the center. Birds that have been injured are brought to the Raptor Center for rehabilitation and, hopefully, reintroduction to the wild. There are some great bike and hike tours available through the cruise line that we can also recommend.

Ketchikan, Alaska - Typically the first Alaskan port visited by northbound cruise ships, Ketchikan offers the best shopping in Alaska and some of our favorite excursions. On this trip, we opted for the Harley Davidson® Motorcycle Tour ($251 rider/$131 passenger). Having recently been reintroduced to motorcycling with the purchase of my own Harley, I could not pass up the opportunity to ride in Alaska. This is a must-do excursion for any biker. The tour is operated by Panhandle Motorcycle Adventures and includes the use of a helmet, raingear (if necessary), and riding gloves. The folks at Panhandle were very friendly, helpful and safety conscious. After a short briefing about group riding and the basics of operation, we mounted our Harley Sportster 883 bikes for the 3 & 1/2 hour ride through the Ketchikan countryside. The tour included a stop at a local coffee shop and a visit to Totem Bight State Park. There were eight bikes in our group plus a couple of tour guide bikes. Regular stops were made along the Tongass Highway for photo ops and explanations of the sites.

Victoria, BC Canada - This city is situated on the southeastern tip of Vancouver Island. Originally founded in 1843 as a trading post for the Hudson Bay Company, Victoria now serves as the provincial capital of British Columbia. Victoria is the last port visited on this cruise and the stop is probably only done to satisfy the Jones Act (requiring non-U.S.-flagged vessels to visit a foreign port before returning to a U.S. port). Oosterdam is scheduled to arrive in Victoria at 8:00pm, however, we arrived late on our cruise, about 8:45pm. Unfortunately, we chose the Victoria by Horse-Drawn Trolley excursion, with our problem being one of total darkness! In September, the sun goes down about 6pm and by 9:00pm when we boarded our trolley, there was literally nothing to see. We learned later that HAL does inform guests that the tour is conducted in the dark during the shore excursion talk on Victoria. Unfortunately, we did not attend the tour talk. Nevertheless, some people still want to take the tour to see the lights of Victoria. Our advice would be to opt for another excursion, or simply stay on board and enjoy a leisurely dinner.

Conclusion

Holland America has positioned itself as a "premium" cruise line. This relatively new class of cruising fits in somewhere between mass-market and upscale lines. Holland America Line appeals to the cruise consumer looking for a bit more style than is offered by lines like Carnival, NCL and Royal Caribbean, yet without the upscale prices of Seabourn, Silversea and Radisson Seven Seas Cruises. This puts Holland America Line in a category with Celebrity Cruises and Oceania. What distinguishes Holland America from other lines is its long-standing tradition of excellence, great lecture series, worldwide itineraries, friendly Indonesian staff, highly respected Alaska cruises and cruise tours and a growing fleet of beautiful new Vista-class ships. We are sorry to see the line move away from the "no tipping required" policy, because it was such a distinctive characteristic. Nevertheless, Holland America is able to offer some cruise fares that compete with mass-market lines. The 7-Day Alaska Explorer cruise will be offered May 6, 2006 through September 16, 2006.

Captain, Jeroen van Donselear - The young Master of Oosterdam did an exemplary job during our cruise. In addition to being quite personable and approachable (something that we cannot say of all ship Captains), he did an admirable job of getting permission to have the ship visit Glacier Bay to avoid rough seas en route to the scheduled stop at Hubbard Glacier. The Glacier Bay alternative was an expensive one for the Oosterdam (the national park charges $12 per passenger which was absorbed by HAL).

Food Quality - The Vista Dining Room offers good food, good service and a nice menu selection with top-notch presentation while The Pinnacle at the Odyssey delivers a true 5-star dining experience.

The Pinnacle Grill - A true 5-star restaurant with exceptional food quality, presentation and impeccable service. Reservations are required and there is a $20pp service charge (Only $10pp on the first night of the cruise). The prime steaks served here are as good as you will find in any Texas prime steakhouse and cooked to perfection. Lunch is served here on sea days ($10 pp).

Lecture Series - One thing that Holland America does very well is in offering a great variety of lectures throughout their cruises. It is one of the things that distinguishes HAL from the mass market cruise lines and even from other premium lines.

Alaska Itinerary - The Seattle roundtrip itinerary is a great way to get a taste of Alaska without the hassle of an international flight. Seattle is easy to get to and is a great city to spend a couple of days before or after the cruise.

Internet Cafe - The decor of the Internet Cafe is as nice as any you will find on any vessel. The Internet service on Oosterdam is now provided by Maritime Telecommunications Network. Even though we had several problems getting connected to the Internet, the connection speeds were decent once we were able to connect. Guests can pay on a per minute basis (65 cents per minute), or by purchasing a block of 100 minutes for $50 (average 50 cents per minute). The 100 minute block is a better deal, but you run the risk of ending up with unused minutes at the end of the cruise, especially if the Internet service is unavailable on the last day or two, as it was on our cruise.

Harley Davidson Tour, Ketchikan - One of the best excursions we have ever had on ANY cruise (and one of the most expensive). There is no better way to see Ketchikan than on two wheels. Ray and Terri Kolean, owners of Panhandle Motorcycle Adventures offer bikers an exceptional way to see Ketchikan.

New tipping/liquor policies - In an effort to offer cruise fares that compete with mass market cruise lines, HAL has abandoned its long-standing "No tipping required" policy. Now a $10 per day/per person gratuity is automatically added to your stateroom account. Of course, this can be adjusted by visiting the Reception desk. Also gone is the ability to consume liquor in your stateroom that you purchase in the onboard liquor store.

Production Shows - The production shows could benefit from, well. . . better production. The singers and dancers are gifted, but they need better props, costumes and the vibrancy of a live orchestra. Note: HAL claims to be developing three new shows which will be released in late February 2006.

Victoria Excursion - Our horse drawn carriage ride did not even start until 8:30pm which, in September, put us into total darkness. This may be a fine excursion in May thru July, but as the days get shorter, there is little to see other than the lights on the Parliament buidling.

Stateroom Storage - Our Superior Stateroom could have benefited from more storage space. There was very little drawer space and bathroom storage was limited as well.