Blog: Aboard Star Princess Alaska 2009
Cruise Traveler Magazine's Raye and Marty Trencher are blogging live this week from Princess Cruises' Star Princess as it sails to and from Alaska. Got a question? Want to comment. Fill in the comments box. Get answers while they are in route.
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SUNDAY
Good morning, cruise bloggers. Raye & I have just boarded Princess Cruises Star Princess here in Seattle at the new Smith Cove Terminal at Pier 91 in Interbay.
The new 143,000 square foot Smith Cove passenger terminal has great panoramic views of the city’s skyline, Mt. Rainier and the Olympic Mountains. Features of the terminal include concierge services, luggage storage, on-board airline check-in, rental cars, and secure parking. The two-story facility offers mobile gangways and shore power at each 1200- foot berth. The terminal was completed in time for this year’s Alaska season at a cost of $72 million. We're told that every cruise ship that comes to a Seattle port contributes over $1.7 million to the local economy.
The new terminal's utilitarian structure, is more like that of an airport, with baggage and cruise-line check-in counters and U.S. Customs (most ships stop at British Columbia ports like Vancouver or Victoria.) facilities.
Embarkation went smoothly. Remember, you are not likely to see your luggage for several hours after you board the ship, so carry on with you, what you think you will need. A change of clothes, medicines, camera etc. Porters were on hand to handle and take our luggage. If you pre-registered online, the process at the pier moves much faster. You go through Security just like at the airport. Expect about an hour after you arrive, before you board. Embarkation began at noon.
Travel Q&A; What does it cost to get to the Smith Cove Terminal from Seatac Airport?
Answer: For a family of 4, Princess transfers are approx. $52.00 R/T per person. Greyline "Express" around $40.00 per person R/T. A cab will not fit 4 people and luggage, so you will need 2 cabs. Its 17 miles from the airport. Cabs are $2.50 a mile, 2.50 drop and 3.50 airport fee. Wait time is 50 cents a minute. For a family of four, a one way taxi trip would run around $55 including tip each way,per cab, to and from the airport. $220.00 for 2 cabs roundtrip, choose $204.00 for cruise line transfers.
Parking at Smith Cove Cruise Terminal at Pier 91; The Smith Cove Terminal parking lot is available to all Holland America, Princess and Royal Caribbean cruise passengers. Conveniently located near the cruise terminal, it offers 1,000 secure parking spaces. Friends and family who pick up or drop off cruise passengers also are encouraged to use the lot while visiting the cruise terminal. Park your car for $20 per day.
Hint: Avoid last minute check-in or flight delays and arrive in Seattle the day before the cruise and leave the day after. This way you avoid the rush to get from/to the airport on very busy cruise days. Yes, it adds to the cost of your holiday but in most cases, it's worth it.
Once onboard, we headed for the Welcome Aboard Lunch at Horizon Court Buffet, deck 14.
Star Princess' 24-hour buffet is the Horizon Court. On Embarkation day, Horizon Court is a busy place and finding a place to sit was a challenge. The buffet feels cozy despite its size. With clusters of buffet stations serving a wide variety of hot and cold dishes plus fruit, salads, cheeses, and various offerings highlighting different international cultures. Lines were kept to a minimum and we were hardly aware of the number of passengers this restaurant can accommodate at one time. The service staff was always there if you needed them. As my wife was just recovering from a broken ankle, they helped with the food trays, getting drinks etc. This restaurant coverts into a sit-down bistro from 10pm to 4am, so if you like the idea of dining at or past midnight, this is where you go.
After lunch we met with the Princess hotel staff to review and coordinate the onboard schedule of events and attend to any last minute arrangements for the large group we have onboard. We distributed a Welcome Aboard letter from us, to everyone's stateroom and checked-in with the groups leader, Don Emmerich. People hardly notice when everything goes right, but one or more hic-ups and everyone has a comment. So, we like to "advance" ahead of every group, so we can take care of any potential issues before the group even becomes aware they exist.
Early this evening, before dinner,, Raye & I are hosting a private cocktail party for our group, the Cameracraftsmen of America. This group of near 90 guests is holding their annual business meeting onboard. ( more about their meetings-at-sea, later on in the week ) The cocktail reception will be held at Explorer's Lounge. A lounge designed to evoke a feeling for the Far East and Africa. Explorer’s Lounge offers nightly cabaret acts, singers, magicians, comedians or dancing. Tonight at 6:30 it's all ours.
Princess offers its Personal Choice Dining program, in which you can take part in traditional dining with a fixed first or second sitting, or an unstructured restaurant-style approach. Star Princess has three main dining rooms, Amalfi (traditional fixed seating) and Capri and Portofino (anytime dining), and Horizon Court the 24-hour buffet and bistro. For great fun try the Italian specialty restaurant, Sabatini's—a show in itself with a contagiously high-spirited cast, roving accordionist, and hefty platters of favorite dishes. There is a $15 cover charge. Also for an up-charge, the Sterling Steakhouse serves steaks, chops and seafood and reservations are required.
There are a number of special opportunities to enjoy Princess’ Signature Alaska Cuisine. Throughout our cruise, chefs will create a bounty of flavorful dishes that reflect the state’s culinary delights, featuring fresh local fish, savory meats, and an assortment of seafood specialties. Here's one of our favorites....
On Monday, we'll report how the cocktail party and dinner went and let you know how our group is progressing with their meetings. We'll also have a behind-the-scenes look at what it takes to accommodate a group of this size.
So for now, we're off to see a show, then we'll enjoy gazing at the stars from our balcony stateroom before retiring for the evening.
Our stateroom was decorated in soft muted colors, beige, cream and muted pink. The stateroom has ample storage and closet space, a flat screenTV, safe, refrigerator and a hair dryer. Of the 1,301 cabins, 711 boast balconies (80% of outside cabins), and 28 are wheelchair accessible. Mini-suites and suites have separate sitting areas. Two family suites sleep eight.
Travel Tip: You can learn more about the wonders of Alaska from the comfort of your own stateroom “The Heart of Alaska” – Produced by Princess, is a unique documentary beautifully depicts the land, wildlife and people of Alaska with dramatic visuals and music. The 26-minute film features fascinating interviews with some of the people who make the state unique – including rangers, Alaska natives, homesteaders and dog mushers who share an insiders’ perspective of life in the 49th state. The film also brings you up close to the wildlife of Denali National Park, and soaring photography takes viewers high above the world’s tallest peaks, including “The Great One,” Mt. McKinley. The film won a “Best Cinematography” award at the New York Independent Film and Video Festival. The film is available for purchase onboard.
MONDAY
From the comfort of our private balcony, we indulged in an exquisitely prepared Alaskan breakfast. The feast included smoked salmon and an Alaskan crab quiche plus fresh pastries, fruit and forest berries served right on our stateroom balcony as the ship passed breathtaking scenes of Alaska. Later, we found hot chocolate and mid-morning bouillon served on deck to help warm us up.
There's nothing like a day at sea for relaxing by the pool, reading a book in the library, practicing your shots in the golf center, browsing through the shipboard boutiques and taking part in a long list of organized activities. But for us, it's all work and no play. This is the first meeting day for our group: Cameracraftsmen of America. They will be meeting today in the Skywalker's Club from 8:00 to 3:30pm. High over her stern, fully 18 stories above sea level, Skywalker's Night Club (Deck 17) is accessible by a moving walkway. The moving sidewalk you ride up to Skywalkers is one of the most breathtaking views on any ship.
Now, if you don't happen to be in meetings all day, ( most people are just on vacation far away from work ) here are some things you can see and do on your day-at-sea.
On the daily schedule of activities are Culinary Demonstrations – where you can learn the tricks of the trade from Princess chefs at a demonstration featuring the flavors of Alaska. Visit Star Princess’ updated piazza-style atrium featuring an array of dining and entertainment opportunities including specialty coffees, freshly baked goods, paninis, salads and tapas of the International Café. You can also visit Vines, their wine bar concept, which features more than 30 wines by the glass, a selection of artisan meats and cheeses, plus a wine shop where you can purchase your favorite bottle. One of our favorites.
Reindeer Chili & Rockfish Chowder Cook-off – A sea day cook-off between two chefs giving us the opportunity to sample these local tastes.
On the top deck of the ship, you can relax in the tranquil environment of The Sanctuary, Princess’ signature adults-only retreat featuring plush padded lounge chairs and the services of dedicated Serenity Stewards. Along with enjoying refreshing beverages and light snacks, visitors to this exclusive space can also receive a massage in one of two private cabanas. ( my wife loves that! )
You can also see a variety of films, concerts and special events daily on a giant poolside screen. In the evenings it becomes an outdoor theater with specially covered lounge chairs and cozy blankets, where moviegoers can enjoy free popcorn, plus other snacks and beverages. Visions of the old drive-in, the two of us out on an old-fashioned romantic evening under stars.
Visit the Internet Café and library area, Get a message at the Lotus Spa. Workout at the Health and Fitness Center, shop the onboard boutiques, or take part in a free swing lesson or line dance class, see a fruit and vegetable carving demonstration, take a computer lesson ( $25.00 per class charge ) participate in the Trivia Challenge, Play bingo for cash prizes or join a Naturalist for a presentation about the animals, glaciers and scenery of Alaska. Throughout the day there are some 30 different activities going on, Way too many choices to mention here. To say the least, you'll never run out of things you can do.
We've been invited to the Captain's Gala Welcome Cocktail Party. Oh! so has everyone on the ship. We'll meet the Captain and the Ship's Officers.
TUESDAY
After passing between Bold Island and Annette Island and through the Tongass Narrows, Star Princess is now berthed at Ketchikan. Later this afternoon we will depart Ketchikan and set course for Tracy Arm.
The salmon capital of the world also has the world's largest collection of totem poles. You can see this ancient art form and learn the meaning behind totem pole imagery at the Saxman Native Village. Other main attractions are Creek Street, Tongass Historical Museum and Totem Bight State Park. You may also opt for a floatplane flightseeing Misty Fjords National Monument.
The name Ketchikan comes from the Tlingit phrase that means "eagle with spread wings" a reference to a waterfall near town. The town is easily seen by just just walking around. The best place to visit for an historical perspective was the Discovery Centre. Inside, we found three totems representing the three native groups of the area — Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian — and dioramas depicting both natural and man-made aspects of life in and around Ketchican. This southern-most Alaskan port city is known as Alaska's First City because it was the first major community travelers came to heading north.
Founded as a fishing camp, Ketchikan is built on steep hillsides and is billed as the salmon capital of the world. A sportfishing paradise. A quaint village, the town is just three miles long and three blocks wide. U.S. Forest Service naturalists from the Ketchikan - Misty Flord Ranger Station were available to answer questions and distributed educational materials about Southeast Alaska and the Tongass National Forest. In the afternoon, they gave an informative presentation entitled: The Tongass - A Forest of Islands. While in Ketchikan, visit the Totem Bight State Historical Park, with the world's largest collection of totem poles. These wood-carved creations portray colorful, intricate tales, often showing a family's history or depicting a local legend. Meander the Creek Street Boardwalk with its historic cable car and quaint boutiques, Creek Street is Ketchikan's most famous and photographed section, as well as a great place to spend a relaxing afternoon. Creek Street was once the home of bars and bordellos. Today there are still a few bars, but the bordellos have been converted into shops and restaurants. Seaplanes provide the most breathtaking vantage point for an exploration of the majestic Misty Fjords National Monument.
When we will returned to the ship we found a festive poolside fish barbeque serving up such specialties as grilled prawns on skewers, fresh Alaska halibut brochettes, crab cakes, and venison chili. What a treat.
Raye & I have done this trip before, but this year we are finding more local tastes and culture onboard than ever before.
WEDNESDAY
During the night Star Princess navigated the Chatham Strait and Frederick Sound. In the early hours of the morning, we sailed into Stephen's Passage bound for Tracy Arm Fjord. The ship negotiated down the narrow fjord to view the glaciers and then turned around and set an outbound course for Juneau. We cruised Tracy Arm from 6:00 a.m. until 10:00 a.m.; and then arrived in Juneau at 2:00 p.m. and will depart at 10:00 p.m.
Located 50 miles southeast of Juneau, the spectacular glacier-carved Tracy Arm fjord has sheer vertical walls that clearly showcase nature's artistry. We got to linger in this magical place to watch blocks of ice calving off the glacier's towering faces. What a sight to witness the white thunder as the Sawyer Glaciers release into the waters of Tracy Arm Fjord.! Alaska's glaciers are constantly crumbling and yet their powerful effect is never diminished. Ice calving off the glacier’s faces is what created this fjord's steep granite canyons. Keep an eye out for the seals playing on the icebergs, and don’t forget your camera.
The perfect vantage point is up on deck, rather than your cabin to take in the beauty of these dazzling waterfalls and calving glaciers onboard a cruise ship. Or, if you are looking for another great vantage point, The Sanctuary is a prime location for glacier viewing of Tracy Arm. The exclusive Sanctuary experience offered a variety of amenities to make our glacier experience comfortable, with deluxe padded lounge chairs, plush fleece blankets, ear muffs and binoculars. Park rangers and naturalists also provided private commentary for guests in The Sanctuary, and were available for one-on-one meetings to answer questions. A variety of special food and beverage offerings were available exclusively in The Sanctuary, including Mimosas and Bloody Marys, specialties such as Alaska Rockfish Chowder and freshly fried "Beaver Tail” pastries. ( There is a $10 per person fee to enter and passengers can choose from two daily "seatings": 8 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. or 1 - 5 p.m. )
While Star Princess sails among the stunning scenery of Alaska toward Juneau, a lavish lunch buffet fuels us up with a variety of Alaskan specialties, including hot and cold smoked salmon carved at the buffet, crab salad, and grilled fish. We're looking forward to the "Alaskan Dinner" that will feature a number of local tastes and regional influences, including salmon, a celebrated seafood soup and loin of venison.
After visiting Tracy Arm Fjord, we reenter Stephens Passage and it's off to Juneau. In 1880, it was slow going for Joe Juneau and Richard Harris as they searched for gold with the help of Indian Guides. From their discoveries came three of the largest gold mines in the world. By the end of World War II, more than $150 million in gold had been mined. Eventually the mines closed and the business of gold was replaced by the business of government. Some 30,000 people live in Juneau, the state's capital.
Juneau is beautiful, with the summits of Mt. Juneau and Mt. Roberts clearly in view. There's so much to do and see here that Princess offers no less than 30 different excursions in and around Juneau - including a walk on a glacier! Be sure to visit the state capitol building and the museum, which is dedicated to the history of gold mining in the mountains that surround Juneau. Float planes are found everywhere in the harbor in Juneau, so consider taking fly-by tours of Taku Glacier and a stopover at a lodge for a king salmon feast. A tram ride to the top of Mt. Robson, is awesome! Or you might want do some deep sea fishing. the last time we were here we did. Caught a 25 pound King Salmon. Had it filleted and shipped home. Most expensive salmon Raye and I ever ate. But the experience was well worth it! If you are looking for something a little less of an adventure, an optional shore excursion tour stops at the famous Mendenhall Glacier. Or, just walk around and get some souvenirs in the quaint shopping district.
Our group - Cameracraftsmen of America have reserved a Whale Watching & Wildlife Quest tour. We will depart at 3:30pm and return back to around 8:30pm. We'll report on how it went on Thursday. This exciting cruise features a guaranteed whale sighting! Following a short motor coach ride to scenic Auke Bay, we will board a water jet-powered catamaran specially designed for wildlife viewing. We will view the majestic backdrop of snow-capped peaks and glaciers as we sail through the island-studded waters of Stephens Passage. An onboard naturalist will explain the habits and habitat of the wildlife we may encounter, which include humpback and killer whales, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, porpoises, bald eagles, Sitka blacktail deer and, occasionally, yes : bears.
Travel Tip: If you take this tour on your cruise, be sure to bring a warm, rainproof jacket to wear on the topside observation deck and don't forget your camera!
In the Vista Lounge we met Iditarod Champion Libby Riddles: Libby Riddles is the 1985 Iditarod sled dog race champion and first woman ever to win the famous Anchorage to Nome trek. Riddles recounted her amazing conquest, taking us behind the scenes into the world of dog mushing, she shared her Iditarod experiences while describing what it’s like to live in a native Inupiat village near Nome. Riddles’ approximately hour-long presentation, was followed by an opportunity for us to ask questions, get autographed copies of her books or pose with her for photos.
Travel Tip: On each Alaska sailing, you have the benefit of the expert guidance from a dedicated onboard naturalist. These veteran guides include biologists, writers, adventurers, professors and Alaska Natives, among others, who give informative presentations about local wildlife, glaciers, oceanography, marine life, native Alaskan cultures, history and many other local topics of interest. Naturalists often provide colorful bridge commentary as well and help with spotting wildlife.
THURSDAY
Star Princess passed through the Gastineau Channel last night bound for Stephens Passage and made her way through the Lynn Canal to Skagway. Skagway was the gateway to the gold fields for the thousands who flocked to Alaska and the Yukon with the hope of hitting it rich. Skagway may have boasted the shortest route to the Klondike, but it wasn't the easiest. Over 100 years ago, the White Pass route through the Coast Mountains and the shorter but steeper Chilkoot Trail were used by countless stampeders. Many miners perished on the treacherous Chilkoot Trail. When the gold finally dwindled in 1900, the population went from a high of 10,000 to less than 1000 today.
We caught Gold Rush fever as we browsed the rustic shops along Broadway Street. From the wooden boardwalks and false-fronted buildings to the horse drawn wagons and townsfolk in period costumes, you'll think you traveled back-in-time.
One of our favorite excursions is the Skagway's White Pass & Yukon Route railroad. Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark - a designation shared with the Panama Canal, the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty. The WP&YR climbs nearly 3000 feet in just 20 miles and features steep grades of up to 3.9%, cliff-hanging turns of 16 degrees, two tunnels and numerous bridges and trestles. You will get to see the steel cantilever bridge which was the tallest of its kind in the world when it was constructed in 1901. And the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites is a must-see from the comfort of your vintage passenger cars. Tens of thousands of men and 450 tons of explosives overcame harsh climate and challenging geography to build the railroad.
FRIDAY
Over the course of today our ship navigated through the North Pacific Ocean, off the West Coast of British Columbia, passing the Queen Charlotte Islands, then off the coast of Vancouver Island bound for the Juan De Fuca Straits.
During this day at sea, our group the Cameracraftsmen of America, held their second business meeting-at sea.
During our cruise, there were so many outstanding activities onboard, it was hard to choose what to do first, let alone for the rest of the day.. You could fill your day with such activities as a personal enrichment class, do yoga, go shopping, or just relax in one of the spas or get a soothing massage. We took in the naturalist presentation about Eagles, Seals and Bears. A great look at some of the animals that inhabit the environment of Alaska.
This evening after dinner we chose to dance to the music of the Star Princess Orchestra, and watch the Comedy Show. Great fun!
SATURDAY
We arrived in Victoria in late afternoon and will be in port until 11:00pm. Earlier this morning we took in a Culinary Demonstration and a behind-the-scenes look at the ship's Galley. It's absolutely amazing how they get all those meals cooked and served just right.
Benvenuto, Italian for 'welcome', is the name the Butcharts used for their original estate, now a National Historic Site of Canada, and still owned by family descendants. The Butchart Gardens offer 55 acres of wonderful floral display located in Greater Victoria on Vancouver Island. This is mid-May. As the weather warms trees burst into flower. The perfumes of spring and vibrant colors of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and others tantalize our senses. Other things you can do: Explore Victoria's history on a Grand City Drive. Visit the awe-inspiring Craigdarroch Castle with its 39 rooms and five stories of stained glass and end the day with high tea at the world-famous Fairmont Empress Hotel.
SUNDAY
Star Princess has been our home away from home for the past week. Early this morning she docked in Seattle. Our cruise has come to an end. Sadly, its time to get back to the "real" world. But before we go, let's talk about Debarkation. Princess did not rush us out of our stateroom or off the ship. We were advised to wait in our stateroom or in the public lounges, and not in the gangway area, until our luggage tag colors are called, so that an orderly departure from the ship can be achieved.
The process went quickly. We were out of our stateroom by 7:30, had breakfast in the buffet. They called us about 8:30 am and a few minutes later and "off" we went. We found our luggage, were through customs and were out the door. We couldn't have asked for better.
At breakfast we meet again with the Princess hotel staff to debrief how the group's events were handled and we're happy to say, everything went on schedule and as planned. We checked-in again with the groups leader, Don Emmerich to see if there was anything else we could do before we disembarked Star Princess. We'll have a lengthy tele-conference in a few days to go over everything and follow-up with many of the groups members to hear about how their experience aboard Star Princess.
And last, when you say “Alaska” a variety of images and impressions come to mind: towering mountains, watchable wildlife, icy blue glaciers, endless wilderness, vibrant Native culture, leaping salmon, hardy outdoors; America’s last frontier. Often, visiting Alaska has as much to do with what people may feel as with what they will see. There is a mystique that surrounds Alaska. To some it represents a dream, a trip of a life time, a life altering event, a chance to reach out and touch something inside themselves that is wild and beautiful like they imagine Alaska to be. We hope our week aboard Star Princess fulfilled our group's dreams and aspirations. Our job was to put that dream - or as much as possible of it - within reach of them. We think we did.
Choosing the Alaska cruise experience that's right for you...That's what makes the difference.
A special thanks to the people who publish the "Princess Patter" the onboard daily guide for passengers for their insight into Alaska's history and port descriptions mentioned in our blog. Exterior photo of ship courtesy Princess Cruises; all other photos by Raye & Marty Trencher, Cruise Traveler Magazine
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ALASKA IS BIG! Did you know?
Alaska has its own time zone. We are four hours earlier than the East Coast, one hour earlier than the West Coast, etc.
Are the mosquitoes overwhelming? Mosquitoes have jokingly been referred to as Alaska’s “unofficial state bird.” Some regions of the state do have mosquitoes most of the summer. In fact, the only time of year we can guarantee NO mosquitoes is winter; however, with preparation mosquitoes can be only a mild annoyance at their worst. Use Repellant. Mosquitoes are less present on the open ocean and in urban areas. Does it always rain in the Inside Passage? No, even though much of the Inside Passage is a RAIN forest, there are frequent stretches of blue sky and dry weather. The rain is necessary for the green of the forests and the incredible waterfalls; all flora and fauna found in the area depend on it and the environment it creates. You should prepare for both wet and dry days. Bring rain gear AND sunglasses. Do you know why glaciers look blue (and why an over-cast day really makes the blue stand out)? It is because the molecules of the ice absorb all the colors of the spectrum except blue which is reflected! Now you know, too!
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